Computer Diagnostic GS-911 Tool For BMWs

Since we have a few BMW bikes to maintain we decided to get one of these tools.  My bikes are a 2008 K1200S and a 2010 R1200RT.  I've used the tool a few times on both bikes and two other friend's bikes.  I'm impressed with the information that you can view with this tool and even better are the different functions that you can perform on various systems.  Something to note is that the newer the bike the more information and functions that you can perform.

The software included with the purchase is strictly Windows but it ran perfectly fine on a Mac running a Windows emulation program.  As a matter of fact it ran better in that way than on my Windows Laptop.  The laptop is older than the Mac but it's one of the higher cost laptops, i.e., it cost more than the Mac.  There is also limited functionality on certain phones (no iPhones!).

Software running on a MacBook Air

A detail review of this tool will follow after I have used it much more.  At this time I do want to report that my K1200S seems to be idling and running at slow speed much better than before.  I also used it to help bleed the ABS module that I had replaced when I purchased the bike earlier this year.  That made a big difference with the front brake feel.  I had run an entire bottle of brake fluid (12 oz) through the system before I did the ABS cycle function.  I do have a MityVac but did not use it when I was doing the bleed.  The MityVac might (should?) have done a better job than regular bleeding but cycling the ABS module is best and there is no way of doing that in the garage or under a shade tree.

I'll give a thumbs up to the software also.  It seems to be updated several times a year.  I like that.  Being a techie I hate stale software.  As you can see from the picture above I'm running the beta version.  If you don't want to be at the bleeding edge stick to the release versions but it's easy to downgrade if you need to do that.

Short and to the point

No rating of this product yet but it looks like it will be a high rating.  In addition, with software upgrades it can only get better.  I recommend this product if you do a lot of your own maintenance.  Heck, for me, it's worth half the cost just to be able to reset the service reminder.

Warning: If shopping for one of these be careful because there are Chinese copies out there.  The Chinese copies are not supported by the manufacturer and you won't be able to upgrade the software of your unit.

Thanks for reading...
tsp

BMW 1979 R100RT: Part III - Test Ride

Fuel Line Filter

I finally got a chance to take the bike out on its first maiden run; a short 85 mile ride. I've had the bike put back together for a few weeks now, but every time I'd take it out the carburetor float bowls would start leaking, usually within five miles of taking off. I would just pull over and take the bowl off, let some gas run through the needle valve and pop it back on. Good to go for another four or five miles!
Of course, the inside of my gas tank is rusty and it sitting at the painter's for over a month sure didn't help. I know I've got to treat that tank, but it seems no one sells the solution I'm looking for in South Texas (it's a water soluble thing called Evaporust). Well, it finally dawned on me that I should just put in a pair of small and inexpensive fuel line filters. I picked up two of the smallest I could find at Autozone for $4.99 each, cut the fuel line, and popped them in. Took less than five minutes. My brother said he did the same thing years ago with his Honda CBX (six cylinder) and said that after the filter clogged the bike stalled on him on some lonely highway. He just punched a hole in the filter with a screw driver and kept on riding.
We left Saturday morning for a breakfast run to San Isidrio, Texas. Those fuel line filters worked like a charm. About 35 miles down the highway I opened up the throttle a bit and went from a pedestrian 65mph to 85.3mph according to my Garmin GPS. I know it's accurate because it's been certified by radar in the Texas Hill Country.  According to the local Sheriff in Camp Wood he said he clocked me at 65mph in a 55mph zone and I had my cruise control set right at 65mph, on the Garmin not on the speedometer.
The bike ran great, smooth and once it warmed up it shifted smoother and just ran better. It idled perfectly at 1,100rpm and should do much better once I get the carbs tuned. Of course, the bike feels much taller and nimbler than my Harley Ultra Classic. I did notice a little wavy (loose) feeling in the rear section as I held the bike at 85mph. I'm not sure if that was because of the wind or some mechanical issue. At 75mph it was totally smooth; at 65mph it was smoother, very quiet, and felt like it could stay at that speed forever.
Once I got home the only noticeable problem was some gear oil weeping from the gear shifter shaft entering the transmission. Maybe that's due to my replacing all the fluids with synthetic oils and perhaps I should go back to the old dino oils. I'm ordering the new seal and that should take care of that problem. I also felt that the saddle just wouldn't do on a day-long ride so I may look at getting a Corbin saddle to replace the custom job on there now.
Conclusion: Yes, I'm very happy with the bike and just want to keep tinkering with it.

BMW 1979 R100RT Project: Part II

Work In Progress!

  Well I finally got my parts back from the paint shop. I worked on it a full two days, the second joined by my brother who helped me out quite a bit. It still needs the pin-striping work, but I got so impatient with the long wait on the paint job, five weeks, that I  just told him that we'd do the pin-striping later. 

Well it looks a lot better than it was back on February 29th when I bought it, but it still has a long way to go. Hopefully, I can now take my time with anything I tackle next knowing that I can take it out for a spin at any time. I plan on taking it on our maiden voyage this week, maybe doing a hundred miles or so to see how it handles and holds up. I have yet to get it up to it's sweet spot which I'm told is somewhere around 4,500rpm? Here's some of the basic things we've done to date on the bike. First off, we removed that very ugly seat, old styled fog lights, passenger riding pegs, and the Reynolds rear rack. We have new Metzelers on both front and rear, new front brake pads, new fork seals, new progressive springs in front forks, new progressive shocks, new push-rod seals, valves adjusted, carburetor float and needle valve, new clutch cable, new air filter, new oil filter, all the fluids changed, replaced seat with older seat more to my liking, new fairing mirrors, new front fork fender brace, and side reflectors on front and rear. Replaced many screws, nuts, bolts, etc. I'm sure I'm forgetting some things, but there's still lots to do. 

Before

Putting on the fairing can be a little hard, especially if it's just one person, lots better if you have help. I'm telling myself that now I'll go back and redo everything, but at a slower pace just to make sure I've got everything right. I'll make sure that every screw is the right one, and new without mixing some new with old. The important thing for me is that it run well enough that I can confidentially take it on an out of state ride this summer. 

New Fork Brace & Reflectors

Looking Good!

Needs Pin Striping

Ready to Roll

'79 BMW R100RT: Third Day Progress

New Mud Flap & Renewed Plates!

I've had the RT now for about two weeks, but yesterday, a Saturday, I had time to work on it for the third time. This time I installed a new air filter element; changed the oil and oil filter; changed out the transmission fluid; and the rear end fluid. I used Mobile 1 VTwin motor oil and Royal Purple 75W145 for the transmission and Mobile 1 75W145 for the rear end. All the plug bolts were fairly frozen on so it took some doing to get them loose and the old oil filter was the wrong one so it was tough getting it out. BMW makes a filter that is two piece so you can install and remove it without having the frame interfere like it does when using the one piece type. I don't know how they got that filter in, but I had to tear it to get it out.
We adjusted the idle speed to just over 1,000rpm so as to make sure that the oil light didn't come on as it was doing when the idle was at about 750rmp. I also used some de-greaser to clean up the rims and the disc brakes. I lightly sanded the front discs and the breaks seem to work much better.
We took the bike for a short test run and it's running smoother and shifts better. We're still getting some oil weeping from the pushrod entry point into the block and from the oil pan gasket, but those seem to be very minor and can get to them on our next work day.

1979 BMW R100RT Motorcycle Video

Okay, here's a short video of our first day's work on the bike!

Well it's day two with the Beemer. Today we replaced the float and needle valve on the left side; replaced all the fuel lines; installed a new clutch cable; replaced saddle with one I picked up for $75; replaced some old 50 watt driving lights with my Hella DE Xenon HID Micro Lights; inflated the tires to proper levels; emptied gas tank and replaced it with new gasoline; installed my Garmin Zumo 550 brackets and cradle; installed a battery charger pig tail; and did a ten mile test run. Brick by brick it'll come together. It's already running great considering how it was running on Wednesday when I purchased it. More to come later!

Purchased Rare Find: 1979 BMW R100RT

 That 1979 BMW R100RT that my brother Tomas, pictured above, found under a tarp in McAllen, Texas is now my new bike. Yesterday, being leap year, seemed like a great day to buy a good looking motorcycle. It was only about seven miles from my house so riding it home I never made it past fourth gear, but I could tell that this bike has a lot of life left in it. It was a great price and the doctor owner said he'd like to see it go to a good home. It came with the rare air pump and original tool kit.
The odometer is not working, but the seller said that it can't have more than 40,000 miles on it because he hardly ever rode it. Overall the bike looks good and except for a few minor dings it's in great condition. My brother and I spent the day just tinkering with it and here's what we've jumped into:
We drained the tank and will be getting some fresh gasoline tomorrow. There was water and trash in the gas so we're glad that was covered;
I pulled off an old add-on stop light that was not working;
I removed those huge driving lamps and hope to install a set of HID lights I've got in my workshop;
We washed it twice to knock off old dirt, grease, and spider webs;
My brother removed the speedometer to check it out and clean the lens from the inside. Only problem with odometer is that the gear that turns the numbers slides off the worm drive that turns it. It seems as though it should have a stop or something at the opposite end to keep it from sliding away from the worm gear, but it conical shape at the end makes it hard to add any kind of "stop". Any ideas are welcome.
Greased all grease nibs;
My brother fixed the wind shield knobs that were not working thus not allowing us to adjust its height;
Before we drained the gas we had added some "sea foam" to get the water out;
I removed the seat to check for the standard pegs so I can start looking for a replacement "stock" seat;
and we tinkered with other odds and ends.
We still need to work on the clutch since first gear take offs are somewhat abrupt unless you really give it some gas and slowly engage the clutch.
Tomorrow I'm going over to check out a friend who's got a stock seat that may fit my bike. Then there's lots of little things that need attention, but overall this is one great bike in my opinion.

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Wheels are dirty, but in fine shape with new Michelins