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Our website is all about motorcycles, especially BMW cycles. We cover rides in the Southwest and Mexico, motorcycle modifications and review motorcycle products. 

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Filtering by Category: "R1200RT"

Shopping Alert - Compact Driver

Tomas Perez

Bosch PS21-2A

I own a BMW R1200RT that has plenty of body panels that are fastened by Torx screws. I had been looking for a small cordless driver so that I can make the 30 minute job into a 10 minute job. At this time I haven't removed any of the panels so I haven't tested this driver yet.

This is from the Lowe's web site:

  • Powerful for tougher applications with 265 in-lbs. of max torque
  • Compact design - shortest head length and shortest height in class
  • LED light- enables use of tool in low light or dark areas
  • Lightest weight in class - great for overhead or continuous work
  • 2-speeds - 0-350/0-1300 RPM so speed of tool can be matched to the application
  • 20 + 1 clutch settings for precise torque adjustment
  • Forward/reverse button - equally useful at driving or removing screws
  • 1/4" hex drive - for quick bit changes
  • Provantage tool and battery protection plan - 3-year tool protection plan, 2-year free battery replacement guarantee, 1-call resolution hotline

Case, charger, 2 batteries and the driver
The driver is on sale for $79.00 at Lowe's until 12/31/2012. The product number is PS21-2A. This is the updated driver which is much improved over the old one so make sure you get the right one. There is also a larger impact driver for about $99 but that is not what I really wanted. I wanted the smallest driver (not impact type) that had a clutch so that I could control the torque being applied for both removal and driving. By the way I do not intend to use the driver to torque any of the motorcycle panel screws except perhaps to one of the lowest torque settings. I will do the actual tightening by hand as always.

I can't rate this tool since I haven't used it yet but it looks like a 10 so far and it's at a very good price right now. Amazon has this driver for $104 right now.


Loving my RT Again (or what I hated about my RT)

Tomas Perez

New Left Front Rotor

For at least 6 months now I have been wanting to write a blog entry titled "What I Hate About My BMW RT".  One of the reasons I did not post it is that I don't like to present a problem or issue without also presenting a possible solution to that issue.  I now have resolution to my problem with my RT.

I have a 2010 R1200RT that I purchased new.  I now have a little over 35,000 miles on the bike but a little over a year ago my bike developed the dreaded pulsating front brake.  For those of you that have never experienced it you can describe it as rather minor problem... in a way.  The pulsating is not felt until the bike is rolling very slowly - almost at a stop.  I must use the front brake a lot because I felt it nearly every time I came to a stop.  Soon after the bike developed the problem I took it to my dealer for evaluation.

I let the dealer take their time working on the bike because I was 100% sure that the issue would be identified and correct under warranty.  Not so!  The SM told me that they were within specs.  I said how could that be because the front brake pulsated.  He said they were within BMW specs.  I argued that in over 40 years of riding motorcycles I had never had this problem.  I added that the RT was by far the most expensive motorcycle that I have purchased but I had to live with the problem.  I added that I purchased a used Cushman for $50 in college and the brakes did not pulsate.  He said they were within specs and that BMW would not pay for the replacement.

Let me add at this point that when I described the problem to my independent BMW motorcycle mechanic he immediately said "The rotors are wrapped".  I told him that the dealer had said no and that the rotors are within specs.  He says "The rotors are wrapped".  I didn't say anything but everything I know about mechanics told me that he was right.

Nearly a year later I decided to try the dealer again.  One reason is that my bike is nearly out of warranty and two is that the dealer had a new SM.  As it turned out the new SM was out for an extended period of time (months I was told).  I nevertheless rode the 265 miles to the dealer since I wanted them to check out the bike before I hit the 36,000 mile warranty limit.  Once there I decided to report the issue about the pulsating front brake and my cruise control switch acting up (again!).  BTW, as it turned out the acting service manager was the owner of the dealership.  I could not help but wonder... is this a good thing or a bad thing?

I had already resolved to try to correct the problem myself by first trying new pads and that failing I would switch out the rotors.  I had to... I was already getting to the point that I was adjusting my riding habits by avoiding the front brake at slow speeds.  I did not like that.

After the mechanic test drove the bike the SM (owner) walks into the waiting area and tells me that 1 rotor is wrapped and it will be replaced under warranty.  I was a happy camper.  I signed to work order that had a total of $540 for the work (remember - only one rotor and no new pads).  Everything was done in less than two hours.  The rotor was replaced (I'm lucky one was in stock) and the cruise control switch was ordered.  I was anxious to try out the bike after having the issue for about 14 months or 13,000 miles.

I pull out of the parking lot and come up to a stop sign about 30 yards from the parking lot exit.  I come to a stop and thought "WOW!  What a difference".  I drive to Willie's for lunch which is only about 2 miles away but this time I welcome every stop and stop light along the way.  Yeap, the problem is fixed!  The one issue I was having with my bike is now corrected.  New sparks plugs, oil change, and no pulsating brakes made the bike feel awesome.  I was riding alone but enjoyed the 265 mile ride back home.  Conclusion... pulsating front brake can be corrected by replacing the brake rotors.  Expensive - but a solution.  Maybe after market rotors will be a better solution.  I would consider them but for now my bike is fixed.


My Bike - 2010 BMW R1200RT

Tomas Perez

My current bike is a 2010 BMW R1200RT that I purchased new at Alamo BMW in Boerne, TX in March 2010.  I'm using this post for sharing tips, service items, modifications, and other things relating to this motorcycle.  I'll be adding to this post as I make changes or add items to the bike.  The main objective is to keep everything related to the R1200RT in one post (instead of a lot of short posts).

First and foremost: My prior bike was a 2003 Honda ST1300ABS.  You can read my comparison of these two bikes here: My review: BMW RT vs Honda ST

My changes to the RT:
The only thing that I have changed on the RT is the driver seat.  After about 15,000 I had a chance to buy a nearly new heated Corbin seat.  I've had Corbin seats before on my prior two bikes.  I also like the Smuggler trunk that Corbin sells.  I had it on the ST1300 but non yet for this bike.  It's costly.
Wiring instructions for the Corbin here: how-to-wire-aftermarket-seat-to-bmw

I'm one of those guys that's happy with the windshield.  It does everything that I want from a windshield.  For example, being from south Texas it has more wind protection than I need where we have summers well past 100 degrees F.  Also I can have the top of the shield below my eye sight and still have the wind going over my helmet.  Maybe if it were very cold I would need a bigger windshield but at this point smaller might even be better for me.

My additions to the RT:

  • Touratech tank bag
  • Saddle bag liners
  • XM radio
  • Zumo 660 GPS
  • AmpliRider amplifier
  • FuzeBlock power distribution box
  • P3 LED brake lights
  • SilverStar H7 low beam bulbs
  • Replaced the SilverStar low beams with the Osram Rallye bulbs. (Mar 2012)
  • Grip Buddies
  • Replaced the Osram 65W low beams with HID bulbs
  • Added the Wunderlich GPS mount that goes above the dash
(I hope to do a review on some of the items listed above but that will be a separate post.)

BMW RT Driving Light Special Functions
Some special light features that work on my BMW R2010 RT. Please feel free to add or correct anything on this list.

Turning off headlight: with engine running push signal to right and then push in to cancel and hold until headlight turns off. Headlight will come back on if the bike is moved so only works while you are stopped.

Turning on parking lights and rear tail light: As soon as you turn off the engine press and hold signal switch to right turn signal. Hold until parking lights turn on. Resets when you switch the bike back on.  Be careful of draining your battery by leaving these lights on too long.  In addition, I think some tank bags can cause the parking lights to be switched on without you knowing it.


Service History (Basic Format)
2010/4/6    -  600 service  - 812 miles
2010/9/15  -  12K service -  11,903 - Replaced front tire with Z8
2011/8/17  -  18K Service - 16,144 - Replaced rear tire with Z8
2012/3/12  -  Replaced front tire with another Z8 - 24,997 (12,000 miles and it still had thread)
2013/4/16 - Replaced front tire with PR 3 - 39,637 (the old Z8 wore in a weird way)

I got a few special services missing here. I'll find them and update this and do a recap of the tires used.  I seem to be getting very good life from the Z8 tires.  Currently I have 11,000 miles on the front with some life left but it does have some cupping.  The rear tire has 7,000 miles with lots of life left on it.  The bike came with Z6 tires.

R1200RT - First Week (no mods)
After 22 months and 23,000 miles the bike still feels like a new to me motorcycle and the engine seems to be getting better as the miles add up.  Some people say the boxer engine takes about 20,000 miles to break in.  I believe that now.

Update - Feb 24, 2012 - Horn stopped working.  I think it's the switch.  Seems to be a known problem with the new BMW RT's.

Update - Mar 5, 2012 - Got the LHS switch gear replaced under warranty by dealer.  Everything is good again.

Update - July 18, 2012 - Cruise control switch is acting up again.  How can BMW tolerate these poor quality switches?